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The New York Times- July 16, 2008
Dining Briefs by Frank Bruni
Steve Hanson smelled the smoke wafting from barbecue pits across the city;
he saw the legions of New Yorkers gnawing on ribs. And he swept into action... installing this
mammoth roadhouse of a restaurant, into which it seems the whole state of Texas might fit.
"Get sauced" is its motto, and you may want to do precisely that once you hear the roar of
the country and rock music... Don't be rushed because the food is more appealing than its trappings,
and reasonably priced. You don't often find chicken wings as meaty as the ones here.
The barbeque encompasses many traditions, not confining itself to just one. There's smoky brisket
with a proper amount of fat and there are tender pork ribs and rich beef short ribs with even more
fat. That's praise.
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Review by Beef Aficionado- April 24, 2008
Indeed, the menu does not subscribe to one type of barbecue or another, but rather
combines a menagerie of regional styles into a cohesive menu. The beef items
on offer, brisket and an
enormous bone in short rib are pure Texas... The beef brisket was absolutely
superb, moist, tender, smoky and delicious. It was the epitome of fork tender
'cue, it won't fall apart at the mere sight of a fork but it will easily succumb
to
the slightest
pressure. ... The beef brisket was absolutely superb, moist, tender, smoky and
delicious. It was the epitome of fork tender 'cue, it won't fall apart at the
mere sight of a fork but it will easily succumb to the slightest pressure.
Basking in Big Lou's BBQ Brisket- June 17, 2008
By Danyelle Freeman
What works at Wildwood? Brisket. Anything with brisket. The kitchen tosses
burnt ends of brisket into the kettle-cooked baked beans. It dices brisket into
the Texas jailhouse chili,
topped with cheddar, onions and sour cream. The Texas smoked brisket- crusty
edges spiced with pepper, cumin and paprika- comes hand-sliced on a butcher
board. Best of all is
Big Lou's barbecue burger- 90% brisket, 10% chuck- piled high with caramelized
onion,
sautéed mushrooms, Monterey Jack cheese and sturdy bacon. I'd come back to Wildwood
just
for the burger and the homemade salt and vinegar chips that come with it.
Best of all is Big Lou's barbecue burger- 90% brisket, 10% chuck- piled
high with caramelized onion,
sautèed
mushrooms, Monterey Jack cheese and sturdy bacon. I'd come back to Wildwood just
for the burger and the homemade salt and vinegar chips that come with it.
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